Lucian Matis F/W 2012

Designer Lucian Matis is known as a showman. There isn’t a bague or bobble that he doesn’t like to embellish his pieces with. At times, his visions can feel theatrical (in a good way), so presenting his F/W 2012 show at the legendary Fairmont Royal York Hotel was a perfect idea.

Concentrating on a lean and cropped silhouette, the collection was sexier than seasons past. The arabesque scrollwork seen in the guipure lace was a springboard, with sheer panels (and sometimes full-on sheer blouses) being peek-a-boo reminders of the skin that lay underneath the swaths of black fabric.

Amongst the cocktail dresses were a suit and a car coat. Both trim with (faux) croc accents; the coat made use of corded detail, mimicking the lace details of the dresses. A few gowns (a favourite being full-length tulle with a blue-grey underlay) were graceful without being grand.

The one lone element of the fantastical was when Matis used feathers on a few coats, capes and dresses (the layers of feathers on a corseted gown could be heard rustling down the runway).

Matis’ collection was no longer referential, but a fresh retelling of his visual story. And, for those detractors who mention the wearability (i.e. the lack thereof) of previous seasons, F/W 2012 proved that Matis can produce a collection that everyone will want to wear.

Photos courtesy of

Written By Steven Carver